If you have difficulty starting your car; it can be hard to know what’s causing the, hard starting engine problem.
The exact moment in the process of starting in which you find yourself stuck; will tell you a tremendous amount, of what may be going on.
If your car won’t start, it’s important to note what’s happening, when you turn the key.
Unfortunately, there is no easy solution that can work for all, hard starting engine cases. But, paying attention early, may steer you down the right path, to a easy repair. If the engine takes more than 4 seconds to start, there is a problem.
There are a number of issues that will make a car hard to start. Everything from the electrical system to the fuel system to the actual starter itself, can be the problem. But, the number one cause for this problem is, a Vacuum Leak.
I would recommend doing a vacuum test before moving on.
Before, the troubleshooting begins, we must know if there is a check engine or service engine soon light “ON”.
Always Start By Looking For Any, Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC)
Your vehicle engine control unit monitors important emission control systems through several; sensors and actuators to make necessary adjustments. When any one of these sensors deviate from its normal parameters; a Diagnostic Trouble Code is set, in its memory.
This means your check engine light (CEL) will come on. However, a fault may come and go. An intermittent fault like this could set a pending (DTC), without making your (CEL) illuminate. Still, you should scan your computer for pending codes.
Here’s A List Of The Most Common Faults You Should Look For:
Always Check Sensors, Filters And Vacuum Leaks.
Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor:
- Over time, dirt or foreign matter can cover the sensing element; preventing the sensor from operating correctly.
- Check the sensor, clean it if necessary, and make sure to reinstall the air cleaning assembly properly.
- So, as to prevent unmetered air from entering the engine.
Throttle Position Sensor (TPS)
Usually, a bad or failing (TPS) sensor will trigger the Check Engine Light (CEL). So, scan the computer memory for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs).
Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) Valve And Connecting Hoses
A stuck open (PCV) valve can have an adverse effect, on engine starting.
If the paper element seems covered in dirt or clogged, install a new one. If you haven’t replaced it in more than two years, replace it.
A vacuum leak will make it hard for the computer to figure out the, correct air-fuel mixture. Trace every vacuum hose looking for rough, soft, hard, or uneven spots, that may indicate a damaged hose.
Throttle Valve (throttle plate) And Bore
Carbon deposits in the valve or body can interfere with the valve. Use carburetor cleaner and a shop rag to remove deposits. NOTE: Some vehicle manufacturers apply a protective coating to the throttle bore that makes it hard for sludge to accumulate. Cleaning the bore with an aftermarket chemical, may remove this coating.
Idle Air Control (IAC) Solenoid
The solenoid allows extra air to enter the engine at idle, depending on operating conditions. Over time, the valve passages may fill with carbon deposits that can, interfere with its operation. Remove the solenoid and inspect the passages. You can find it near the throttle body. If necessary, check the solenoid for proper operation.
Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) Sensor:
The sensor is in charge of reporting, the coolant temperature at any given moment. The computer uses this information along with information, from other sensors.
Adding more fuel to the mixture, when the engine is cold and leaning the mixture, as the engine warms up. Even more, the computer uses information from (ECT) and other sensors, to adjust ignition timing as needed.
Hard Starting Engine, When Cold
A hard starting engine when cold, is usually associated with certain components; when they begin to fail or wear out.
Although not exclusive to this condition, the following components, are worth checking:
Check Ignition Components
Bad spark plugs are blamed for many performance issues. Poor fuel economy, low power, misfiring and, yes, hard starting engine, when cold.
Check Fuel System Components:
Lack of necessary fuel system pressure, will make it hard for your engine to start.
This may happen on a cold engine, if pressure is slowly leaking or not building appropriately.
Hard Starting Engine, When Hot
Some components or systems that cause starting problems cold, may also cause problems when hot. Also, don’t forget to scan your computer for (DTC)s. Even if the (CEL) hasn’t come on, you may find some pending codes; that can guide you in your diagnostic.
Check Fuel System Components
Look for an obstruction to fuel flow or a malfunctioning component, preventing fuel from properly reaching the engine.
Check Engine Ground Connections
A bad engine ground connection, can work as an unwanted resistance in a circuit. Once the engine has reached operating temperature, the heat will add some unwanted resistance to any wire. The same effect can have corrosion dirt or grease around, an electrical connection. A torn, damaged, or oil-contaminated strap connection, can interfere with this current path.
Hard Starting Engine When, Cold or Hot
There are varied reasons why you may have a hard time starting the engine, when cold or hot:
Starting System And Battery
This is perhaps the most common fault to appear, under this condition. You may notice the starter motor not working as usual or weak. Check your battery first. Then, have the starter motor tested, if necessary. Most auto part stores will check the, starter motor and battery for you.
The number of vacuum hoses differ from one engine model to another. But, most have an emissions diagram label, at the front of the engine compartment. Check each of these hoses for proper connection, damage, wear and uneven spots. To make it easier, trace each hose with your hand. You may need a mirror to help you inspect some hoses, in difficult to reach places.
- Carbon deposits around the plugs’ electrodes.
- Worn out spark plugs.
- Check spark plug wires resistance.
- Carbon traces around the distributor cap and rotor; if equipped.
Check for a clogging or leaking fuel injector, bad fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator, or faulty fuel pump.
Carbon buildup, around the intake valves, can also give you problems, during engine start up.
Service the valves with, a decarbonizing chemical, if necessary.
Hard Starting Engine, After Refueling
All (EVAP) systems have a charcoal canister, that it relies on. The canister has a huge surface area that is effective in storing vapors from the fuel. If the charcoal canister where to go bad, there would be an array of problems. In addition, to power reduction, fuel odor, more pinging, lower fuel economy, and flooding.
Evaporative Emission Control System (EVAP)So, most common problems with the (EVAP) system include, faults with the purge valve. The canister purge valve, also commonly referred to as the purge valve; is an important component of your (EVAP) system. So, this system restricts the fuel vapors created in your fuel tank; from escaping into the atmosphere, by trapping them. When your engine runs at regular speed; the (EVAP) system slowly allows these vapors to be, released into your engine.
Bad Or Failing Gas Cap
The gas cap, also known as the fuel filler cap, is a simple but important component. Their purpose is simple, to prevent dirt, debris, and dust from entering the gas tank; as well as providing a reliable seal. The cap also plays an important role in the operation of the vehicle’s (EVAP) emissions system. The (EVAP) is designed to capture and reuse fuel vapors from the gas tank. Because, the cap is frequently removed, every time fuel is added, it can wear out.
The flow of these vapors is controlled, by the canister purge valve. The valve regulates when and how much of these vapors, enter your engine. The canister purge valve, is electrically operated and is also referred to commonly as, a solenoid. The most common purge valve issues are when the purge valve is, stuck open or closed. Also, it may just not open at the proper time. The symptoms are listed below that may indicate, your canister purge valve is not functioning properly.
Check Engine Light Is On
The first sign of trouble for your canister purge valve is, the check engine light coming on. Consequently, your canister purge valve is controlled by your car’s computer, which allows it to monitor its performance. If your car’s computer detects higher or lower than expected purging, it will illuminate the check engine light. Common error codes include P0441 and P0446, as well as other (EVAP) codes.
Purge Valve Stuck Closed
Furthermore, if your canister purge valve is not opening properly it may adversely, impact your gas mileage. Finally, you will lose a portion of the fuel, regularly used in burning.
Purge Valve Stuck Open
So, if your canister purge valve is stuck open, it creates a vacuum leak. Simply put, air will be allowed to enter the engine in a quantity that is, not predicted by your computer. This will change the car’s air to fuel ratio and can cause, rough idling as well as, difficulty starting. Therefore, if experienced together, there is a high likelihood of a, failing canister valve. As a result, this enriches the fuel mixture and will likely, foul the spark plugs.
When a hard starting engine condition suddenly appears, the first thing we do is panic. But, remember that your car engine and computer; rely on sensors, actuators, hoses, fluids and electrical systems for proper operation. Finally, once a component in need of attention begins to fail; it can cause other components or systems to fail.
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