So, with a little practice, you can gain the experience and knowledge to know, what engine noises mean.
You should always take the extra time, to make a proper noise analysis, before doing any engine repair work.
Consequently, having a heads up on engine noises, can reduce repair costs, by addressing any problems, before irreversible damage occurs.
When diagnosing Engine Noises, don’t forget the basic techniques. Firstly, consider running it with the drive belts removed, dropping the transmission into drive, and checking for broken accessory mounts.
So, most techs are familiar with using a long screwdriver, socket extension or a piece of hose as a stethoscope. But, a mechanic’s stethoscope will provide much clearer, and accurate results. So, we’ve put together this quick guide, for diagnosing common engine noises, to help you avoid potential damage.
Valvetrain Engine Noises
Valve and tappet noises, usually begins as a ticking noise, or chatter, at half the engine speed. And, may then, disappear at high speeds. The cause is often excessive valve clearance or a, defective hydraulic valve lifter.
Worn or sticking hydraulic lifters can cause this noise:
- Varnish build up, on the lifter surfaces.
- Low oil pressure, could be another cause.
So, to check your clearances, you can use a feeler gauge. Slide it between, the valve stem and the rocker arm or lifter. If this reduces the noise, the cause is excessive clearance. Consequently, you’ll need to make the proper adjustments. Other things to look for include, lifters that are moving loosely in their bores and weak valve springs.
Detonation, Pre-Ignition (Pinging) Engine Noises
Above all, detonation can cause, serious damage to an engine. You usually hear this noise, when accelerating the vehicle. Most people call this, a pinging or rattling noise. As a result, of ignition happening, before the piston reaches the top of its stroke. Sometimes called, pre-ignition or pre-detonation. Consequently, damaging the pistons, valves and connecting rods. The fuel igniting too early produces, pressure waves from the fuel’s explosion in the cylinder. And, that’s also why you hear the pinging and rattling noises.
Some of the causes of this condition are:
- Improper fuel octane.
- Engine overheating.
- Improper ignition timing.
- Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) Valve not working properly.
- Problems with the computer.
- Knock Sensor (KS) issues.
This creates multiple flame fronts in the cylinder, fighting each other and causing, the pinging and rattling noise. Check your owner’s manual, to make sure you’re using, the right grade of fuel. Or you can switch to a higher grade, for a period and see if the noise goes away. Because, if it doesn’t, you’ll want to look at, these other possible causes.
Timing Chain Engine Noises
Many of the newer engines have, overhead camshafts with longer timing chains. Consequently, a timing chain connects the crankshaft to the camshaft, to insure the valves open at the proper time.
Hydraulic tensioners, usually keep the slack tight on the chains. The chains ride against a nylon guide (a chain guide) which, in time, begins to wear. Consequently, if they are worn, the timing chain will begin to rattle.
As a result, of the timing chains becoming so loose, that they whip back and forth. Usually, against the guides and possibly the timing cover.
If the oil pressure is correct, replacement of the hydraulic tensioners and chain guides, needs to happen. A mechanic’s stethoscope, is a great tool to pinpoint this noise. If the noise is loudest when touching the timing cover with the stethoscope, disassembly is the next step.
Connecting Rod Engine Noises
Connecting rod noise, is caused by excessive clearance, between the crankshaft and the connecting rod bearing surface. This happens when you have low oil pressure, causing the bearing to run dry of oil. Which in turn, will damage the bearing and crankshaft surfaces.
This can also be caused by, poor maintenance. As a result, the oil gets dirty and grit can wear the surface of the bearings.
The noise is usually heard when, you hold the throttle at a steady (RPM). If it sounds like a single knock, you can isolate the cylinder. Usually, by disabling the spark or the fuel injector for each cylinder, one at a time.
When the noise goes away or gets much quieter, you have found the problem. Problems like this require immediate attention. Because, continued running of the engine in this condition, will damage the crankshaft.
Piston Pin Noises
Although similar to valve train noise, piston pin noise often has a unique, metallic sounding double knock. And, is sometimes most noticeable, during idle with the spark advanced. This noise is usually caused by, the lack of oil and excessive clearance, between the piston pin and the piston. A piston pin, attaches the connecting rod to the piston. It is lubricated by oil, which is sprayed onto the pin, through a hole in the opposing cylinders connecting rod.
Problems like this are usually a result of, worn connecting rod and crankshaft bearings, which reduces oil pressure. As with connecting rod noise, you can find the offending components, by performing the same test shown above.
Piston Ring Noises
Piston ring noise is also similar to, the valve and tappet noise above. However, it is most noticeable, during speeding up.
Usually caused by:
- Low ring tension.
- Broken or worn piston rings.
- Worn cylinder walls.
To troubleshoot each cylinder, remove the spark plugs and add a tablespoon of engine oil to each cylinder. Then, crank the engine for several revolutions, to work the oil down past the rings.
You can then install the spark plugs and start the engine. After that, if the noise is reduced, the rings are most likely the problem.
Piston Slap Engine Noises
A hollow, muffled, almost bell like sound, is usually piston slap. Caused by a piston rocking back and forth in its cylinder.
Continuous piston slap means, the engine needs service. However, if you only notice this sound when the engine is cold, it is likely not serious.
A continuous piston slap sound, is usually caused by:
- Worn pistons.
- Excessive, piston to wall clearance.
- Misaligned connecting rods.
- Worn cylinder walls.
- Inadequate oil.
Bearing Noises ( Rod Knock )
A heavy, yet dull metallic knock, is typically bearing knock.
Under load or speeding up, the engine noises are louder:
- A regular, low rumble knock, is often from worn main bearings.
- More distinct knock, is often worn rod bearings.
- A sharp, irregular knock, can be from worn thrust bearings.
Noise may also come from, other bearings. Consequently, there are several items under the hood that can make this kind of sound:
- Water pump.
- Air conditioner clutch bearing.
- Fan belt idler pulleys or belt tensioner.
- Alternator and the power steering pump.
So, these are all possible sources for sounds, indicating future bearing failure.
Conclusion
When diagnosing engine noises, don’t forget basic techniques like:
- Running it, with the drive belts removed.
- Dropping the transmission into drive.
- Checking for broken, accessory mounts.
Finally, it’s always a better idea, to spend more time diagnosing and less time fixing.
BY DANNY BENDER
