Testing your engine cooling fan can solve your heating issues.
- Is your Engine Overheating
- Is your Engine Cooling Fan Working
If not , Let’s do some testing and fix it yourself.
Let’s start with the easy stuff and move down the line:
The first step is checking for a blown fuse. As a result your engine cooling fan will not work if you have a blown fuse. In general, most vehicles on the road have two types of fuses. Older cars have glass, cylinder-shaped fuses with stainless steel on the ends and glass in the middle. Most newer cars have a different style of fuse that uses a plastic housing with the fusible link encased in the housing. One easy way is just visually check for a continuous wire with no breaks. Using a multimeter is another good way.
Hence if you find a Blown Fuse replace it. As a result that may be all you need to get back on the road. If it is OK move on to the next step.
Consequently Engine Cooling Fans can and do wear out.
Yours could be blown so you will need to check it.
Unplug the Fan Connector closest to the fan. Make up some jumper cables and connect them directly from the battery to the fan motor to see if it spins. Consequently if it does not spin it is blown. Replace it and you are back on the road. If it is OK move on to the next step.
Electric cooling fan issues.
A fan failure, or a failure of the fan relay or control circuit is bad news because it can allow the engine to overheat. On applications that have variable fan speed, the engine may also overheat if fan speed fails to increase when additional cooling is needed. The fan may work but it only runs at low speed, which may not be fast enough to prevent overheating.
In general there are six things may prevent an electric cooling fan from coming on:
- Defective temperature switch, coolant sensor or other sensor
- Engine thermostat is stuck OPEN (engine never gets hot enough to turn on the fan)
- Faulty fan relay
- A wiring problem (blown fuse, loose or corroded connector, shorts, opens, etc.)
- A bad fan motor
- Defective fan control module
The next thing to test is the Coolant Switch Or Sensor.
On most systems, there is a coolant temperature switch that turns the fans on and off. Locate the coolant temperature switch and unplug it. Be sure you have the right one. Some vehicles have as many as three:
- one for a dashboard warning light,
- one for an overhead console
- and one for the PCM
Consequently with the engine running and the coolant temperature switch unplugged the fan should come on. The PCM will now detect a failed switch, store a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) and turn on the fan(s). If it doesn’t, and you have a domestic vehicle, the coolant temperature switch is a normally open type that stays open until the coolant reaches its set temperature. When it reaches that temperature, the switch closes and turns the fan(s) on.
To check this, unplug the single wire connector and, using a jumper wire, ground it. At this point the fan should come on. Most Japanese cars have a normally closed switch. These switches open when the set temperature is reached thus turning the fan(s) on.